The road to Valhalla: Viking adventures in northeast Canada
It’s the sort of morning that carries the threat of biblical rain, the Atlantic fog rolling in so fast it could be described as witchcraft. It arrives in a thick swirl to the north of Bonne Bay around Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse, causing it to disappear within the murk. For Mother Nature’s next trick, the sea mist swallows the towns of Rocky Harbour and Woody Point to the south, before changing course to let the sun break through with an almighty, absorbing glow.
It’s an act worthy of the Norse storm god Thor, revealing the orange-topped tablelands of Gros Morne National Park in all their natural splendor.
Welcome to the Viking Trail
This is as fitting an introduction to Newfoundland’s wind-whipped west coast as one could hope for. I’m motoring north on the little-known Viking Trail, a lonely 489km road through fjords and forests, squinting through the foggy windshield while mentally preparing for what lies ahead. Bookended by Deer Lake, home to Western Newfoundland’s largest airport, and L’Anse aux Meadows, the best-preserved Norse settlement in North America, the route builds towards a grand finale, packing in a compendium of craggy headlands, geological marvels and cultural oddities that experts still can’t quite figure out. Almost all accounts of Canada’s eastern frontier mention its Viking past, but Route 430, as it’s also known, has an extra dimension: this end-of-the-world road is also a territory for dramatic sightings. Blink and you may miss a breaching whale or cluster of moose grazing by the roadside.
Even if many people would struggle to pinpoint it on a map today, Newfoundland has long loomed large in the imagination of explorers, fishermen and sailors. It’s anchored south of Greenland at the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the world's largest estuary, and buffeted by the Labrador Sea. Politically it is governed by Canada and its capital Ottawa, some 1500km to the west. But geographical isolation has fashioned Newfoundland in a distinctive, inimitable way. Cod stocks lured fishermen from Europe and 70 years ago, from 1907 to 1949, the province was a British dominion, while Basque whalers hunted off the coast during the 16th century. Before that, around the year 1000, it was the turn of Viking explorer Leif Erikson, who arrived some 500 years before Christopher Columbus crossed the Atlantic. For those interested in derring-do and conquest, this is a road trip restless with history.
Unpredictable canyons and forests
As the skies begin to clear, I stop at Gros Morne National Park’s headquarters north of Rocky Harbour. The scenery ranks among the most beautiful on the Atlantic seaboard and chiseled green hills rise over Western Brook Pond, a dramatic freshwater inlet where hikers follow a boardwalk trail into tuckamore forest. Where the trail ends, a boat ferries them deeper into the post-glacial fjord’s wilderness for overnight hikes in the shadow of 700m cliffs formed 1,500 million years ago. Locals call it the Grand Canyon of Newfoundland, but in an era of overtourism, it is a place to slide effortlessly into the meditative rhythm of forest life. There are no Viking raiders, just the odd herd of roaming woodland caribou, so I proceed north with caution: a road trip never felt so unpredictable.
By afternoon, the Viking Trail begins to shadow the Long Range Mountains, the northernmost reaches of the Appalachians, who’s contours slope off into a landscape of gentle ridges topped with dwarf birch. Between the hills are headlands for whale watching and expansive views of Labrador across the Strait of Belle Isle. Here, in summer, locals wake to the sound of migrating icebergs pulling up in the bays. It is a constant display of wild aesthetics, from windswept sea to boreal forest to eye-popping Arctic theater.
A step back into history
At Old Ferolle Harbour, where British explorer Captain James Cook moored in 1763 while on expedition, I stop at Plum Point motel for that ancient Viking delicacy – fried cod tongues, brazenly pulled from the underside of the fish’s chin. In season around every April, harp seal flipper pie is a common specialty along the trail, while seal jerky isn’t unheard of. As with many things along the route, there’s the sense it has one foot in the present, but one firmly rooted in the past. Here, the usual norms don’t apply.
The Viking Trail is known as the cradle of Norse culture in North America, but it only really shifts up a gear when the road veers inland, crossing the interior to the town of St. Anthony on the eastern coast. By this time, gaudy Viking souvenir shops and pastiche houses with longboat-shaped porches crowd the roadside. Guest summerhouses like the Valhalla Lodge B&B, Viking RV Park, and Snorri Cabins complete the picture.
Away from the sparsely-populated hamlets around the fringe of St. Anthony, L’Anse aux Meadows comes into view. Discovered in 1960, the remains of the 1000-year-old Viking-age colony marks the site of the first known European settlement in North America. Here Leif Erikson, son of Erik the Red, and around 70-odd Vikings built timber and sod longhouses, introduced the continent’s first iron works and explored as far south as New Brunswick. According to the Viking Sagas, it’s also where the first European baby was born on North American soil.
“You’re standing in what would have been the chieftain’s room,” Parks Canada interpretative team leader Matthias Brennan tells me, while walking around the Unesco-listed World Heritage Site. “Faint impressions in the pasture lands were excavated to reveal Viking artifacts, but excavations are still ongoing. There are so many unanswered questions.”
As we continue to explore the grassy knolls, Brennan explains the exact nature of life at the winter camp isn’t known. Another mystery is why the Viking farmers left after only 30-odd years. But one stone-cold certainty is how productive they were during their stay: excavations have unearthed hundreds of artifacts made of wood, iron, stone, bronze and bone. Such finds include a copper alloy dress pin, birch-bark containers, carved wood finials and a spindle whorl. Around us, the site is dotted with evidence of fire pits and tool-making workshops.
A rugged people, a rugged land
The final highlight of this northernmost tip of Newfoundland is Norstead, a recreated Viking trading port nearby. To the naked eye, it looks lived-in, with a turf-topped chieftain’s hall, workshops filled with looms, seal furs and pelts, and a boatshed housing a 16m replica of a Viking knarr, or Norse merchant ship. But it is only ambitious by design. The dwelling stands as a monument to human determination, both of the Vikings who inspired it and the Newfoundlanders committed to telling their story today.
The Viking Trail begins just north of Deer Lake, but the road does not end at L’Anse aux Meadows where my journey finishes. New Viking settlements are still being discovered in Newfoundland, with recent satellite imaging pointing archaeologists to a new excavation site at Point Rosee, 240km south of Deer Lake. In time, this could extend the scope of the Viking Trail, by yielding more clues to the lives of the seafarers once intrepid enough to cross the Atlantic to settle in a far-flung corner of the world. Undeniably, it’ll be a story worth the telling.
Make it happen: For more information on planning an itinerary along Newfoundland’s Viking Trail, visit vikingtrail.org. L'Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site opens from late May to early October.
Friday, 14 December 2018
Top 10 tea terraces in Tangier, Morocco
Top 10 tea terraces in Tangier, Morocco
Tangier, the jewel of North Africa, is a dazzling city that perfectly blends the past, present and future, from the maze-like streets of the ancient Kasbah to the expansive modern coastline complete with palm trees that serve as wi-fi towers. Even as Tangier becomes ever more connected, it still maintains its incredibly rich traditional Moroccan culture.
One of the best loved traditions is pausing for a break over a piping hot Moroccan mint tea, and sunny Tangier is the perfect place to drop everything and do as the locals do.
Palais Zahia
Housed in Tangier’s original bank, constructed in 1907, Palais Zahia now welcomes guests at its hotel, spa and restaurant. Head through its ornate door and into the beaming glory of the salon, where natural light pours in through the expansive glass panels on the roof. Take a slow ascent up the stairs, appreciating the handcrafted wooden handrails, to the panoramic open-air terrace, where you can bask in the opulence of this beautifully refurbished riad with the Bay of Tangier splayed open before you.
Le Detroit Palace
Le Detroit Palace’s first appeal is its location in the tunnel passage of the Kasbah. Rugged stones cover the age-old entrance that opens into a stunning palace, now used as a remarkable wedding venue with opulent rooms that hover above the ancient city. But if you’re not here to get married, at least make the vow to climb to the expansive terrace. No other structure in the Kasbah offers a dance floor-sized veranda with a 360-degree view, which is why it’s a top spot for local celebrations.
Nord-Pinus
Graced with spectacular scenes from every viewpoint, the three-level Nord-Pinus on the outer wall of the Kasbah is a marvel, and its carved 3m-high cedar door is a fitting gate to such a palace. Arrays of ornate zellij tiles in every colour dazzle the eyes, but transcend the twin staircases, past the glittering glass windows of the guest suites, to enter an earth-toned hideout, which offers an indoor repose with the same views as the tiered terrace outside.
Le Salon Bleu
With its entrance just a few steps outside the Haha gate of the Kasbah, the terrace of Le Salon Bleu sports a perfect view of the inner Kasbah stone walls, as well as a full vista of the Spanish mountains across the Strait of Gibraltar. This is the perfect venue for relaxation at any time of the day. The bright white exterior with vibrant royal blue to contrast gives the parlour a pristine and tranquil aura, and each level is filled with lounge-style sofas. Time seems to stop here, and its humble size combined with fresh full-flavoured dishes gives a feeling of home. The chefs here take pride in their ever-changing menu and constantly offer specials to show off their culinary skills.
La Terrasse De Dar El Kasbah
A short walk out the southeast door of the Kasbah, La Terrasse De Dar El Kasbah has set up shop in the original 1884 telegraph building, home of the first English telegraph line from Tangier to Gibraltar. The original wood staircase remains as the method of transport to the rooftop, where colourfully potted plants, tables, chairs and lounge sofas create the perfect hideaway from the busy street below. Dar El Kasbah has an eclectic bohemian flair with a matching menu, serving everything from sizzling woks to natural juices.
Café Hafa
Along the northwest coast of Tangier is the necropolis of Hafa, containing Phoenician tombs dating to the 5th century BC, which pave the way to the famous Café Hafa. Founded in 1921, this cafe is where famed authors, playwrights, musicians and poets have stopped by for a sugary mint tea, a game of Parcheesi and a gaze over the Bay of Tangier to the Spanish coastline for nearly a century. With tiers of seating like an ancient cinema (many of the tables are actually built into the stone walls), the cafe offers views unlike any other.
La Boqueria
Let charming La Boqueria draw you in with its sweeping arched entrances and glass enclosures that are sure to keep you in a daydream. The backdrop of the entire city is reflected in its glass-panelled doors, where you can get a majestic glimpse of the Strait of Gibraltar and Tangier Bay. Though the classic mint tea is offered here, the restaurant prides itself on its menu with a Spanish flair, so you can get the best of both continents.
Lux Mall
Tucked away in the residential streets of Tangier is the fairly new Lux Mall, and the shopping centre's cafe, three floors up, is one of the only dining areas in the whole city with a view of Tangier’s southeast, where the low-lying mountains encircle a mix of colourful villas and mosques. If you need a spot to read and write, this quiet cafe is perfect to take some time out.
Bella de Panorama
From almost every angle, the rightly named ‘beautiful panorama’ cafe takes in views of the contemporary port of Tangier and its beaches. Drop in during the day for a waterfront scene in full sun or at night to be mesmerised by the dance of lights along Avenue Mohammed VI. Bella de Panorama boasts an 18-page menu to satisfy almost any craving, from a traditional Moroccan breakfast to a creamy risotto dinner and a parfait for dessert.
Hilton Tanger City Center
If you’d like to be lounging in the water while looking at it, head up to Hilton’s terrace, which sports a pool, a fully stocked island bar and expansive views overlooking the crescent-shaped beach to the north and the hillside villages to the south. If the weather is not quite to your liking, step inside and relax in the glass-walled lounge, where the views are just as spectacular.
Tangier, the jewel of North Africa, is a dazzling city that perfectly blends the past, present and future, from the maze-like streets of the ancient Kasbah to the expansive modern coastline complete with palm trees that serve as wi-fi towers. Even as Tangier becomes ever more connected, it still maintains its incredibly rich traditional Moroccan culture.
One of the best loved traditions is pausing for a break over a piping hot Moroccan mint tea, and sunny Tangier is the perfect place to drop everything and do as the locals do.
Palais Zahia
Housed in Tangier’s original bank, constructed in 1907, Palais Zahia now welcomes guests at its hotel, spa and restaurant. Head through its ornate door and into the beaming glory of the salon, where natural light pours in through the expansive glass panels on the roof. Take a slow ascent up the stairs, appreciating the handcrafted wooden handrails, to the panoramic open-air terrace, where you can bask in the opulence of this beautifully refurbished riad with the Bay of Tangier splayed open before you.
Le Detroit Palace
Le Detroit Palace’s first appeal is its location in the tunnel passage of the Kasbah. Rugged stones cover the age-old entrance that opens into a stunning palace, now used as a remarkable wedding venue with opulent rooms that hover above the ancient city. But if you’re not here to get married, at least make the vow to climb to the expansive terrace. No other structure in the Kasbah offers a dance floor-sized veranda with a 360-degree view, which is why it’s a top spot for local celebrations.
Nord-Pinus
Graced with spectacular scenes from every viewpoint, the three-level Nord-Pinus on the outer wall of the Kasbah is a marvel, and its carved 3m-high cedar door is a fitting gate to such a palace. Arrays of ornate zellij tiles in every colour dazzle the eyes, but transcend the twin staircases, past the glittering glass windows of the guest suites, to enter an earth-toned hideout, which offers an indoor repose with the same views as the tiered terrace outside.
Le Salon Bleu
With its entrance just a few steps outside the Haha gate of the Kasbah, the terrace of Le Salon Bleu sports a perfect view of the inner Kasbah stone walls, as well as a full vista of the Spanish mountains across the Strait of Gibraltar. This is the perfect venue for relaxation at any time of the day. The bright white exterior with vibrant royal blue to contrast gives the parlour a pristine and tranquil aura, and each level is filled with lounge-style sofas. Time seems to stop here, and its humble size combined with fresh full-flavoured dishes gives a feeling of home. The chefs here take pride in their ever-changing menu and constantly offer specials to show off their culinary skills.
La Terrasse De Dar El Kasbah
A short walk out the southeast door of the Kasbah, La Terrasse De Dar El Kasbah has set up shop in the original 1884 telegraph building, home of the first English telegraph line from Tangier to Gibraltar. The original wood staircase remains as the method of transport to the rooftop, where colourfully potted plants, tables, chairs and lounge sofas create the perfect hideaway from the busy street below. Dar El Kasbah has an eclectic bohemian flair with a matching menu, serving everything from sizzling woks to natural juices.
Café Hafa
Along the northwest coast of Tangier is the necropolis of Hafa, containing Phoenician tombs dating to the 5th century BC, which pave the way to the famous Café Hafa. Founded in 1921, this cafe is where famed authors, playwrights, musicians and poets have stopped by for a sugary mint tea, a game of Parcheesi and a gaze over the Bay of Tangier to the Spanish coastline for nearly a century. With tiers of seating like an ancient cinema (many of the tables are actually built into the stone walls), the cafe offers views unlike any other.
La Boqueria
Let charming La Boqueria draw you in with its sweeping arched entrances and glass enclosures that are sure to keep you in a daydream. The backdrop of the entire city is reflected in its glass-panelled doors, where you can get a majestic glimpse of the Strait of Gibraltar and Tangier Bay. Though the classic mint tea is offered here, the restaurant prides itself on its menu with a Spanish flair, so you can get the best of both continents.
Lux Mall
Tucked away in the residential streets of Tangier is the fairly new Lux Mall, and the shopping centre's cafe, three floors up, is one of the only dining areas in the whole city with a view of Tangier’s southeast, where the low-lying mountains encircle a mix of colourful villas and mosques. If you need a spot to read and write, this quiet cafe is perfect to take some time out.
Bella de Panorama
From almost every angle, the rightly named ‘beautiful panorama’ cafe takes in views of the contemporary port of Tangier and its beaches. Drop in during the day for a waterfront scene in full sun or at night to be mesmerised by the dance of lights along Avenue Mohammed VI. Bella de Panorama boasts an 18-page menu to satisfy almost any craving, from a traditional Moroccan breakfast to a creamy risotto dinner and a parfait for dessert.
Hilton Tanger City Center
If you’d like to be lounging in the water while looking at it, head up to Hilton’s terrace, which sports a pool, a fully stocked island bar and expansive views overlooking the crescent-shaped beach to the north and the hillside villages to the south. If the weather is not quite to your liking, step inside and relax in the glass-walled lounge, where the views are just as spectacular.
On the road in Iceland's Westfjords
On the road in Iceland's Westfjords
‘Oh, it looks like there has been a small avalanche here.' Óli, our guide, peers out of the bus window. ‘Yes, just a few hours ago.’ We’re in remote northwestern Iceland, driving to Dynjandi waterfall via Rte 60, a rutted road that winds around the Westfjords’ highest mountain, Kaldbakur (998m). Nature is calling the shots.
Burly and bright-blue-eyed with a matching bandana wrapped around his head, Óli is also a local physio, firefighter and paramedic. Despite the adrenaline rush, I’ve never felt safer. The Westfjords is the least-visited part of Iceland, wonderfully wild, largely uninhabited and relatively inaccessible, and the exhilarating rush of stepping outside your comfort zone cannot be underestimated.
Óli alights from the bus into a wind that blows the elastic band right out of my hair. We’re on our way from the fishing village of Suðureyri, and the stretch we’re on has recently re-opened; it’s closed for six to eight months of the year. After assessing the road, our snow whisperer gives us the all-clear to continue: ‘I will call my colleague. He will clear the road for us on our way back.’ I remember my heart pounding on this precarious yet stunning route on my first visit to Iceland in 2009. ‘Driving around the Westfjords is not for the faint-hearted’ began my travel diary from that trip, one that I’ve recommended to everyone since.
An hour or so of riveting road trip later – the bus twists and turns up and down the soaring mountains, round and round paintbox-blue fjords – we arrive at Dynjandisvogur. The wind abruptly vanishes and as we take the 15-minute walk from the car park up to the mighty Dynjandi waterfall, I’m torn between which is the better view: the falls themselves or the perspective back down the 100m rocky escarpment to the bright blue waters of the bay below. Encouraged by Óli (‘this is solid rock, it’s safe, it does not move’), my dilemma is solved: I let him hold me at the waterfall’s edge while I take a photo of the falls cascading down to the sea.
Iceland’s most dangerous road
‘Everyone ready to go again? Okay, next we will turn onto Iceland’s most dangerous road.’ We’re now with Max, our West Tours cycling guide, munching on some dried haddock outside a fishing smokehouse on the outskirts of Ísafjörður – which, with a population of 2559, is the biggest town in the Westfjords.
As we veer our bikes onto Óshlíð, a rock-strewn, icicle-crusted, sea-eroded track that runs around the edge of the peninsula towards the tiny village of Bolungarvik, it becomes clear how this road got its name. ‘There are landslides and avalanches here often,’ says Max, casually. ‘Since the Bolungarvik tunnel was built in 2010 vehicles don’t use this road any more. It’s just for careful walkers and cyclists.’ I am nothing if not careful, at one point getting off my bike and gingerly walking it into the snow and away from the icy precipice.
But more than once, buffeted by gusty wind, I’m compelled to stop to savour the edge-of-the-world feeling and the views out to the mysterious Hornstrandir peninsula. Uninhabited, with no cars, its craggy, unspoiled sea cliffs loom across the horizon, full of hiking promise for another trip.
Scaling fishy foodie heights
After surviving Iceland’s most dangerous road, a seafood feast awaits at Einarshúsið. This friendly guesthouse is in Bolungarvik, which perches at the edge of 75km-long Ísafjarðardjúp, the largest of the region’s fjords. I’ve spent eight years raving about Iceland’s seafood (and dairy products and, well, everything) to anyone who would listen. Put aside your immediate associations with fermented shark and hotdogs, and let your taste buds loose.
After helping myself at the buffet several times, I lose count as to whether I’m close to the 20 varieties of fish dishes on offer here but, with the catch taken directly from the boat across the street each day, the freshness is undeniable. The cod in garlic sauce definitely deserves a second consideration and while so much fish could get repetitive, each dish has layers of local flavours – chervil, lovage, dill, wild mushrooms, celeriac puree, potatoes – so that it becomes an intriguing challenge to decipher the sauces.
Over the course of this trip I eat a different kind of fish soup for lunch every day, yet remain mystified at the complexity that makes them so delicious. In the ever-so-tiny village of Þingeyri, Sirrý, who runs the guesthouse Við Fjörðinn, let me into one of her kitchen secrets. ‘I use peach. Just a little, to sweeten the soup. The flavour starts by cooking the onions and carrots in butter the night before, so they are caramelised when you add the tomatoes and curry. Then some peach and you add tiny pieces of raw fish just two minutes before you eat. I roll the fish in lime pepper or lemon pepper first.’ I know I will crave these soups for weeks, months, years.
Horse riding among Arctic foxes
The next morning I’m woken by a snuffling sound right at my window. It takes me a while to realise it’s a grazing horse. I’ll soon be riding it at guesthouse Heydalur, located at the opposite end of Ísafjarðardjúp to Bolungarvik, on a farm nestled into Mjóifjörður (‘narrow fjord’), an idyllic rural hideaway. But first there’s delicious Cognac-cured trout for breakfast, once I get over the surprising choice of table salt (Arctic thyme, birch or lava). The trout comes straight from the stream where we’ll be riding. Icelandic horses not only have unusually long and glamorous manes, they also have five gaits, two more than your average horse.
Before we can saddle up, there’s a fantastic commotion: an Arctic fox is stealing the farmhouse dog’s food! It’s rare to spot Iceland’s only native mammal, much less come eyeball to eyeball with it mid-theft. If you’re not similarly lucky, stop at the Arctic Fox Center at Súðavík. There are usually orphaned foxes there, or you can pat the stuffed versions with real fur in the exhibition inside.
I exploit just three of my horse’s five gears (‘Do you want to go faster?’ ‘No!’), as rushing through the tranquil Heydalur Valley feels like a crime. My horse, Franz, once won a race where the rider didn’t spill a drop of beer, so I mostly let him maintain this champion pace so as not to miss the sound of the bubbling stream, the flash of a trout or the steam rising from nearby hot springs.
Sorcery on the Strandir Coast
We get back in the bus for several hours of fjordside driving through rain, sleet and snow around to the eastern side of the Westfjords. By the time we approach the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery & Witchcraft in Hólmavík the snow blizzard curse abruptly lifts, as if by magic: the sun blazes out of hiding, making the snow-capped mountains gleam and the deep blue of the fjords even more majestic. The spookiness continues as we head inside to learn of Iceland’s grim 17th-century witch hunts and tour the fascinating displays of spells and macabre objects, such as the ‘necropants’ – underwear with magical powers made from human skin. A coin inside the scrotum guarantees endless amounts of money, according to local folklore.
Geothermal bathing in Drangsnes
It’s 6pm and 1°C when we arrive in the village Drangsnes, I’m beyond excited about geothermal bathing for the first time. The shivery, wet bikini-dash (you must shower before bathing) from the public facilities across the road is forgotten the moment I ease my frozen bones into one of the three steaming 38–40°C naturally heated hot pots embedded into the sea wall, overlooking Grímsey Island. It somehow seems an apt metaphor for the Westfjords: challenge yourself just a little to be rewarded a thousand times over.
Make it happen
Regular flights connect cities across Europe and North America with Keflavík International Airport in Reykjavík. Air Iceland offers 45-minute flights between Reykjavík’s domestic airport and Ísafjörður twice daily. Several companies offer tours, with Ísafjörður home to a number of operators. Pack thermals, warm layers, and waterproof clothing for changeable weather. Check www.road.is for travel conditions.
‘Oh, it looks like there has been a small avalanche here.' Óli, our guide, peers out of the bus window. ‘Yes, just a few hours ago.’ We’re in remote northwestern Iceland, driving to Dynjandi waterfall via Rte 60, a rutted road that winds around the Westfjords’ highest mountain, Kaldbakur (998m). Nature is calling the shots.
Burly and bright-blue-eyed with a matching bandana wrapped around his head, Óli is also a local physio, firefighter and paramedic. Despite the adrenaline rush, I’ve never felt safer. The Westfjords is the least-visited part of Iceland, wonderfully wild, largely uninhabited and relatively inaccessible, and the exhilarating rush of stepping outside your comfort zone cannot be underestimated.
Óli alights from the bus into a wind that blows the elastic band right out of my hair. We’re on our way from the fishing village of Suðureyri, and the stretch we’re on has recently re-opened; it’s closed for six to eight months of the year. After assessing the road, our snow whisperer gives us the all-clear to continue: ‘I will call my colleague. He will clear the road for us on our way back.’ I remember my heart pounding on this precarious yet stunning route on my first visit to Iceland in 2009. ‘Driving around the Westfjords is not for the faint-hearted’ began my travel diary from that trip, one that I’ve recommended to everyone since.
An hour or so of riveting road trip later – the bus twists and turns up and down the soaring mountains, round and round paintbox-blue fjords – we arrive at Dynjandisvogur. The wind abruptly vanishes and as we take the 15-minute walk from the car park up to the mighty Dynjandi waterfall, I’m torn between which is the better view: the falls themselves or the perspective back down the 100m rocky escarpment to the bright blue waters of the bay below. Encouraged by Óli (‘this is solid rock, it’s safe, it does not move’), my dilemma is solved: I let him hold me at the waterfall’s edge while I take a photo of the falls cascading down to the sea.
Iceland’s most dangerous road
‘Everyone ready to go again? Okay, next we will turn onto Iceland’s most dangerous road.’ We’re now with Max, our West Tours cycling guide, munching on some dried haddock outside a fishing smokehouse on the outskirts of Ísafjörður – which, with a population of 2559, is the biggest town in the Westfjords.
As we veer our bikes onto Óshlíð, a rock-strewn, icicle-crusted, sea-eroded track that runs around the edge of the peninsula towards the tiny village of Bolungarvik, it becomes clear how this road got its name. ‘There are landslides and avalanches here often,’ says Max, casually. ‘Since the Bolungarvik tunnel was built in 2010 vehicles don’t use this road any more. It’s just for careful walkers and cyclists.’ I am nothing if not careful, at one point getting off my bike and gingerly walking it into the snow and away from the icy precipice.
But more than once, buffeted by gusty wind, I’m compelled to stop to savour the edge-of-the-world feeling and the views out to the mysterious Hornstrandir peninsula. Uninhabited, with no cars, its craggy, unspoiled sea cliffs loom across the horizon, full of hiking promise for another trip.
Scaling fishy foodie heights
After surviving Iceland’s most dangerous road, a seafood feast awaits at Einarshúsið. This friendly guesthouse is in Bolungarvik, which perches at the edge of 75km-long Ísafjarðardjúp, the largest of the region’s fjords. I’ve spent eight years raving about Iceland’s seafood (and dairy products and, well, everything) to anyone who would listen. Put aside your immediate associations with fermented shark and hotdogs, and let your taste buds loose.
After helping myself at the buffet several times, I lose count as to whether I’m close to the 20 varieties of fish dishes on offer here but, with the catch taken directly from the boat across the street each day, the freshness is undeniable. The cod in garlic sauce definitely deserves a second consideration and while so much fish could get repetitive, each dish has layers of local flavours – chervil, lovage, dill, wild mushrooms, celeriac puree, potatoes – so that it becomes an intriguing challenge to decipher the sauces.
Over the course of this trip I eat a different kind of fish soup for lunch every day, yet remain mystified at the complexity that makes them so delicious. In the ever-so-tiny village of Þingeyri, Sirrý, who runs the guesthouse Við Fjörðinn, let me into one of her kitchen secrets. ‘I use peach. Just a little, to sweeten the soup. The flavour starts by cooking the onions and carrots in butter the night before, so they are caramelised when you add the tomatoes and curry. Then some peach and you add tiny pieces of raw fish just two minutes before you eat. I roll the fish in lime pepper or lemon pepper first.’ I know I will crave these soups for weeks, months, years.
Horse riding among Arctic foxes
The next morning I’m woken by a snuffling sound right at my window. It takes me a while to realise it’s a grazing horse. I’ll soon be riding it at guesthouse Heydalur, located at the opposite end of Ísafjarðardjúp to Bolungarvik, on a farm nestled into Mjóifjörður (‘narrow fjord’), an idyllic rural hideaway. But first there’s delicious Cognac-cured trout for breakfast, once I get over the surprising choice of table salt (Arctic thyme, birch or lava). The trout comes straight from the stream where we’ll be riding. Icelandic horses not only have unusually long and glamorous manes, they also have five gaits, two more than your average horse.
Before we can saddle up, there’s a fantastic commotion: an Arctic fox is stealing the farmhouse dog’s food! It’s rare to spot Iceland’s only native mammal, much less come eyeball to eyeball with it mid-theft. If you’re not similarly lucky, stop at the Arctic Fox Center at Súðavík. There are usually orphaned foxes there, or you can pat the stuffed versions with real fur in the exhibition inside.
I exploit just three of my horse’s five gears (‘Do you want to go faster?’ ‘No!’), as rushing through the tranquil Heydalur Valley feels like a crime. My horse, Franz, once won a race where the rider didn’t spill a drop of beer, so I mostly let him maintain this champion pace so as not to miss the sound of the bubbling stream, the flash of a trout or the steam rising from nearby hot springs.
Sorcery on the Strandir Coast
We get back in the bus for several hours of fjordside driving through rain, sleet and snow around to the eastern side of the Westfjords. By the time we approach the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery & Witchcraft in Hólmavík the snow blizzard curse abruptly lifts, as if by magic: the sun blazes out of hiding, making the snow-capped mountains gleam and the deep blue of the fjords even more majestic. The spookiness continues as we head inside to learn of Iceland’s grim 17th-century witch hunts and tour the fascinating displays of spells and macabre objects, such as the ‘necropants’ – underwear with magical powers made from human skin. A coin inside the scrotum guarantees endless amounts of money, according to local folklore.
Geothermal bathing in Drangsnes
It’s 6pm and 1°C when we arrive in the village Drangsnes, I’m beyond excited about geothermal bathing for the first time. The shivery, wet bikini-dash (you must shower before bathing) from the public facilities across the road is forgotten the moment I ease my frozen bones into one of the three steaming 38–40°C naturally heated hot pots embedded into the sea wall, overlooking Grímsey Island. It somehow seems an apt metaphor for the Westfjords: challenge yourself just a little to be rewarded a thousand times over.
Make it happen
Regular flights connect cities across Europe and North America with Keflavík International Airport in Reykjavík. Air Iceland offers 45-minute flights between Reykjavík’s domestic airport and Ísafjörður twice daily. Several companies offer tours, with Ísafjörður home to a number of operators. Pack thermals, warm layers, and waterproof clothing for changeable weather. Check www.road.is for travel conditions.
A perfect day in Moscow
A perfect day in Moscow
Spend a perfect day in Moscow walking through history, discovering the city’s medieval foundations and modern flare and everything in between. The Russian capital’s founding site – the majestic Kremlin and the ceremonial Red Square – is still the geographic and spiritual heart of Moscow, making it the ideal place to start your day.
Further on, witness the grandiosity of imperial Russia at the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour and contemplate the remains of Soviet Russia at the Art Muzeon sculpture garden. Your day culminates with a chance to experience the energy and artistry of the here and now. This is the Moscow where urban hipsters ride bikes along the Moscow River and dance tango in Gorky Park; where artists and designers are creating contemporary culture out of industrial blight at the former Red October chocolate factory; and where the city is transforming into a dynamic, cosmopolitan capital of the 21st century.
Morning
Arrive early at Red Square to beat the crowds, and prepare to be awestruck. The vast cobblestone plaza is surrounded by historical monuments and architectural marvels. Take a tour around the square, paying your respects at Lenin's Mausoleum, window-shopping at the State Department Store GUM, and ogling the iconic St Basil's Cathedral. Wander through the blooms of Alexander Garden and catch the ceremonial changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Devote the rest of the morning to exploring the Kremlin, the ultimate symbol of the Russian state. Surprisingly, the noteworthy buildings inside the fortified complex are actually churches, most of them built by Ivan the Great in the 15th century. Study the colourful murals in the Assumption Cathedral; search for the tomb of Ivan the Terrible in the Archangel Cathedral; and admire the amazing iconostasis in the Annunciation Cathedral.
Afternoon
Stroll past the gargantuan Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, which dominates the skyline southwest of the Kremlin. Stalin destroyed the original 19th-century church that was built here to commemorate the victory over Napoleon. This opulent replacement was built in 1997 in honour of Moscow's 850th birthday. From the cathedral, a pedestrian bridge crosses the Moscow River, offering a panorama of the Kremlin towers and the cathedral itself.
Continuing south along Krymskaya naberezhnaya, you’ll come to one of Moscow’s coolest pedestrian-friendly streetscapes. The gargantuan statue of Peter the Great is out of place among the flowerbeds, fountains and street art adorning the river embankment along this stretch. For a blast from the past, stroll through Art Muzeon. This moody sculpture park is a collection of Soviet statues that were ripped from their pedestals in the post-1991 wave of anti-Soviet feeling. These discredited icons have now been joined by contemporary works, ranging from the playful to the provocative.
Across the street, Gorky Park is Moscow hipster central, where you can while away the rest of the day; your main challenge will be deciding which options for 'culture and leisure' to pursue. There is a 16km riverside path that’s ideal for cycling or inline skating (both bikes and skates are available for rental). There are table-tennis tournaments and dance lessons, as well as inviting sundecks at Olive Beach. Alternatively, there’s always something enticing and innovative going on at the Garage Museum of Contemporary Art.
Evening
You could be forgiven for staying at Gorky Park to spend the evening eating, drinking and dancing under the stars. But for a glimpse of Moscow’s hottest spot after sunset, backtrack to the former Red October chocolate factory, now a post-industrial centre for art, design and nightlife. The centrepiece of the complex is the Strelka Institute for Architecture, Media & Design, which often hosts exhibitions, films and concerts. Spend some time browsing the boutiques and galleries before heading to the local hidden favourite Produkty for modern Italian fare.
As the sun sets, make your way to Gipsy, an eclectic, ironic venue for sipping cocktails and observing the locals. You can spend the evening hopping from one rooftop bar to another, taking in the marvellous city views and the electric atmosphere of modern Moscow.
A guide to Moscow’s summer festivals
Believe it or not, in summer Moscow usually gets rather hot. It’s also the season when the city is fully awake, with more events happening than at any other time of the year. Almost every weekend a new market, exhibition or festival takes place, making it pretty hard to choose which one to attend.
Of course, the highlight of this summer in the Russian capital will be the celebration of football, as Moscow gets ready to host the 2018 FIFA World Cup (from 14 June to 15 July) along with 10 other cities across the country. Nevertheless, over the years some big annual events have become an integral – and fun – part of Moscow’s summer culture. Here are our top picks.
Usadba Jazz at Arkhangelskoe
This iconic open-air jazz festival has been taking place in Moscow for over a decade, making it one of the city’s favourite outdoor events. The location is always the same – the gorgeous 19th-century Arkhangelskoe Estate and its surroundings. Apart from some great classical and modern jazz, blues, funk, soul and world music, there’s a new theme each year: in 2017 it was ecology, introducing some local eco-designers and culinary artists to jazz-loving Muscovites.
Red Square Book Fest
This year Moscow’s annual book festival will be taking over the historic Red Square for the fourth time. The event celebrates the reading culture, introduces the best local publishing houses, and allows visitors to purchase books, attend masterclasses and listen to some well-known modern Russian writers. The program covers several themes, including fiction, non-fiction, ebooks, children’s and educational literature, antique and secondhand books, as well as Russian regions. Famous Russian museums present their publishing projects and catalogues, and there are live concerts and performances throughout the festival.
Moscow Flower Show
Who knew Moscow could be a rose? Last year a new sort of rose was created just to celebrate the 870th anniversary of the Russian capital. This international garden festival is a paradise for the admirers of landscape design and all things green and blooming. Both recognised and up-and-coming landscape designers present their works and compete for the main prize, awarded by an international jury. And visitors get a chance to release their inner flower child.
Taste of Moscow
This international food festival has been around for a long time, covering 19 cities of the world and gaining huge popularity in Moscow. The city’s 30 best restaurants will take part in the program this year, offering visitors their most renowned dishes and products. You can treat yourself to delicacies from one of the exclusive menus created specifically for the festival, attend degustations or learn how to cook from a professional chef. The interactive program will also include concerts, masterclasses, pop-up performances and children’s activities.
Park Live
Much loved by both locals and visitors to the city, the annual Park Live rock festival has achieved international status in its six years of existence, treating the fans with performances from world-famous and local rock stars. Hosting Muse in 2015 has been the highlight in the festival’s history, while Red Hot Chili Peppers, Lana Del Rey, Limp Bizkit and System of a Down have also headlined. In 2018 revellers will have a chance to see David Guetta, Gorillaz and Massive Attack at the vibrant Gorky Park in the heart of the city.
Afisha Picnic
Much loved by both locals and visitors to the city, the annual Park Live rock festival has achieved international status in its six years of existence, treating the fans with performances from world-famous and local rock stars. Hosting Muse in 2015 has been the highlight in the festival’s history, while Red Hot Chili Peppers, Lana Del Rey, Limp Bizkit and System of a Down have also headlined. In 2018 revellers will have a chance to see David Guetta, Gorillaz and Massive Attack at the vibrant Gorky Park in the heart of the city.
Times and Epochs
The ultimate historical festival in Russia expands with each passing year, taking over Moscow parks, recreational areas and some of the main streets. It brings together the best from the world of historical re-enactment, boasting more than 6000 geeky participants in 2017 (many of them from abroad). Soldiers, merchants, craftsmen, musicians all walk the streets in traditional costumes, performing or teaching the arts, crafts and games of the past. Best of all, the festival is focused on getting the audience involved in the lifestyles of different eras, from the Stone Age to the Soviet times.
Moscow City Day
Moscow turned 870 in 2017, and to celebrate the occasion, the city administration decided to host a 10-day festival under the slogan ‘Moscow is a city where history is being made’. With Russian avant-garde the main theme, dozens of events, lectures, performances and street markets celebrated the history of the capital as well as its prominent inhabitants. Plenty of music, food and modern art is always to be expected on the city streets during this time. Don’t miss the magnificent fireworks.
Spend a perfect day in Moscow walking through history, discovering the city’s medieval foundations and modern flare and everything in between. The Russian capital’s founding site – the majestic Kremlin and the ceremonial Red Square – is still the geographic and spiritual heart of Moscow, making it the ideal place to start your day.
Further on, witness the grandiosity of imperial Russia at the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour and contemplate the remains of Soviet Russia at the Art Muzeon sculpture garden. Your day culminates with a chance to experience the energy and artistry of the here and now. This is the Moscow where urban hipsters ride bikes along the Moscow River and dance tango in Gorky Park; where artists and designers are creating contemporary culture out of industrial blight at the former Red October chocolate factory; and where the city is transforming into a dynamic, cosmopolitan capital of the 21st century.
Morning
Arrive early at Red Square to beat the crowds, and prepare to be awestruck. The vast cobblestone plaza is surrounded by historical monuments and architectural marvels. Take a tour around the square, paying your respects at Lenin's Mausoleum, window-shopping at the State Department Store GUM, and ogling the iconic St Basil's Cathedral. Wander through the blooms of Alexander Garden and catch the ceremonial changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Devote the rest of the morning to exploring the Kremlin, the ultimate symbol of the Russian state. Surprisingly, the noteworthy buildings inside the fortified complex are actually churches, most of them built by Ivan the Great in the 15th century. Study the colourful murals in the Assumption Cathedral; search for the tomb of Ivan the Terrible in the Archangel Cathedral; and admire the amazing iconostasis in the Annunciation Cathedral.
Afternoon
Stroll past the gargantuan Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, which dominates the skyline southwest of the Kremlin. Stalin destroyed the original 19th-century church that was built here to commemorate the victory over Napoleon. This opulent replacement was built in 1997 in honour of Moscow's 850th birthday. From the cathedral, a pedestrian bridge crosses the Moscow River, offering a panorama of the Kremlin towers and the cathedral itself.
Continuing south along Krymskaya naberezhnaya, you’ll come to one of Moscow’s coolest pedestrian-friendly streetscapes. The gargantuan statue of Peter the Great is out of place among the flowerbeds, fountains and street art adorning the river embankment along this stretch. For a blast from the past, stroll through Art Muzeon. This moody sculpture park is a collection of Soviet statues that were ripped from their pedestals in the post-1991 wave of anti-Soviet feeling. These discredited icons have now been joined by contemporary works, ranging from the playful to the provocative.
Across the street, Gorky Park is Moscow hipster central, where you can while away the rest of the day; your main challenge will be deciding which options for 'culture and leisure' to pursue. There is a 16km riverside path that’s ideal for cycling or inline skating (both bikes and skates are available for rental). There are table-tennis tournaments and dance lessons, as well as inviting sundecks at Olive Beach. Alternatively, there’s always something enticing and innovative going on at the Garage Museum of Contemporary Art.
Evening
You could be forgiven for staying at Gorky Park to spend the evening eating, drinking and dancing under the stars. But for a glimpse of Moscow’s hottest spot after sunset, backtrack to the former Red October chocolate factory, now a post-industrial centre for art, design and nightlife. The centrepiece of the complex is the Strelka Institute for Architecture, Media & Design, which often hosts exhibitions, films and concerts. Spend some time browsing the boutiques and galleries before heading to the local hidden favourite Produkty for modern Italian fare.
As the sun sets, make your way to Gipsy, an eclectic, ironic venue for sipping cocktails and observing the locals. You can spend the evening hopping from one rooftop bar to another, taking in the marvellous city views and the electric atmosphere of modern Moscow.
A guide to Moscow’s summer festivals
Believe it or not, in summer Moscow usually gets rather hot. It’s also the season when the city is fully awake, with more events happening than at any other time of the year. Almost every weekend a new market, exhibition or festival takes place, making it pretty hard to choose which one to attend.
Of course, the highlight of this summer in the Russian capital will be the celebration of football, as Moscow gets ready to host the 2018 FIFA World Cup (from 14 June to 15 July) along with 10 other cities across the country. Nevertheless, over the years some big annual events have become an integral – and fun – part of Moscow’s summer culture. Here are our top picks.
Usadba Jazz at Arkhangelskoe
This iconic open-air jazz festival has been taking place in Moscow for over a decade, making it one of the city’s favourite outdoor events. The location is always the same – the gorgeous 19th-century Arkhangelskoe Estate and its surroundings. Apart from some great classical and modern jazz, blues, funk, soul and world music, there’s a new theme each year: in 2017 it was ecology, introducing some local eco-designers and culinary artists to jazz-loving Muscovites.
Red Square Book Fest
This year Moscow’s annual book festival will be taking over the historic Red Square for the fourth time. The event celebrates the reading culture, introduces the best local publishing houses, and allows visitors to purchase books, attend masterclasses and listen to some well-known modern Russian writers. The program covers several themes, including fiction, non-fiction, ebooks, children’s and educational literature, antique and secondhand books, as well as Russian regions. Famous Russian museums present their publishing projects and catalogues, and there are live concerts and performances throughout the festival.
Moscow Flower Show
Who knew Moscow could be a rose? Last year a new sort of rose was created just to celebrate the 870th anniversary of the Russian capital. This international garden festival is a paradise for the admirers of landscape design and all things green and blooming. Both recognised and up-and-coming landscape designers present their works and compete for the main prize, awarded by an international jury. And visitors get a chance to release their inner flower child.
Taste of Moscow
This international food festival has been around for a long time, covering 19 cities of the world and gaining huge popularity in Moscow. The city’s 30 best restaurants will take part in the program this year, offering visitors their most renowned dishes and products. You can treat yourself to delicacies from one of the exclusive menus created specifically for the festival, attend degustations or learn how to cook from a professional chef. The interactive program will also include concerts, masterclasses, pop-up performances and children’s activities.
Park Live
Much loved by both locals and visitors to the city, the annual Park Live rock festival has achieved international status in its six years of existence, treating the fans with performances from world-famous and local rock stars. Hosting Muse in 2015 has been the highlight in the festival’s history, while Red Hot Chili Peppers, Lana Del Rey, Limp Bizkit and System of a Down have also headlined. In 2018 revellers will have a chance to see David Guetta, Gorillaz and Massive Attack at the vibrant Gorky Park in the heart of the city.
Afisha Picnic
Much loved by both locals and visitors to the city, the annual Park Live rock festival has achieved international status in its six years of existence, treating the fans with performances from world-famous and local rock stars. Hosting Muse in 2015 has been the highlight in the festival’s history, while Red Hot Chili Peppers, Lana Del Rey, Limp Bizkit and System of a Down have also headlined. In 2018 revellers will have a chance to see David Guetta, Gorillaz and Massive Attack at the vibrant Gorky Park in the heart of the city.
Times and Epochs
The ultimate historical festival in Russia expands with each passing year, taking over Moscow parks, recreational areas and some of the main streets. It brings together the best from the world of historical re-enactment, boasting more than 6000 geeky participants in 2017 (many of them from abroad). Soldiers, merchants, craftsmen, musicians all walk the streets in traditional costumes, performing or teaching the arts, crafts and games of the past. Best of all, the festival is focused on getting the audience involved in the lifestyles of different eras, from the Stone Age to the Soviet times.
Moscow City Day
Moscow turned 870 in 2017, and to celebrate the occasion, the city administration decided to host a 10-day festival under the slogan ‘Moscow is a city where history is being made’. With Russian avant-garde the main theme, dozens of events, lectures, performances and street markets celebrated the history of the capital as well as its prominent inhabitants. Plenty of music, food and modern art is always to be expected on the city streets during this time. Don’t miss the magnificent fireworks.
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